The Ice Festivals Cometh

By
Peter Bronski
Posted December 31st, 2009

New England winters, I find, can be a bit bipolar. Depending on the year, you’ll get one personality… or another. In some seasons, conditions may favor skiers. In other seasons, they may favor ice climbers. Sure, in any given winter I’ll partake of my share of both activities, but conditions will certainly favor one over the other.
This year (2009/2010) happens to be an El Niño winter.
Statistically, that has traditionally meant decreased precipitation for New England. And I don’t have to tell you that decreased precip means less snow. That’s not-so-good news for skiers, but for ice climbers, it only means one thing: game on!
Whether you’re an experienced climber, or a novice looking to swing the tools for the first time, there are more than a few ice climbing festivals across the region where you can hone your craft. They’re also a chance to climb with world-renowned guides, get psyched up at evening slide shows, try out demo gear from sponsors, and meet other friendly climbers. Here’s your guide to the “who, what, when, and where.” (The “why” is up to you, though isn’t that part obvious?)
ADIRONDACK INTERNATIONAL MOUNTAINFEST
Where: Keene Valley, NY
When: January 15-17, 2010
What: The 14th annual installment of Mountainfest includes ice climbing courses for beginners, intermediates, the experienced, women only, alpine climbing, steep ice, and even ice climbing for singles (think social event meets cragging). There’s also “Go Climb a Slide,” which features a technical ascent of one of the Adirondack’s classic slide routes.
Who: The roster includes alpinist Steve House, blind Seven Summit climber Erik Weihenmayer, plus locals Emilie Drinkwater, Jeremy Haas, Don Mellor, Carl Heilman, and others.
Web: http://mountaineer.com/?page_id=83
SMUGGLERS’ NOTCH ICE BASH
Where: Jeffersonville, VT
When: January 29-31, 2010
What: The baby of the bunch, just in its fourth year, the Smuggs’ Ice Bash includes one day at Snake Mountain and two days in the Notch. Clinics range from waterfall ice to alpine ice, and feature steep and mixed climbing, lead climbing, women only courses, and even “climbing for skiers.”
Who: Sunrise Adventure Sports director Bert Severin, local climber Matt McCormick, and others run the show.
Web: www.sunriseadventuresports.com/
ice_bash_2010.html
THE MOUNT WASHINGTON VALLEY ICE FESTIVAL
Where: North Conway, NH
When: February 5-7, 2010
What: Now in its 17th year, the MWVIF is one of the premier ice climbing events in the country. Three days of clinics include an intro to ice climbing, climbing waterfall/steep ice, avalanche awareness, alpine-style climbing, learn-to-lead classes, mixed climbing, and guided ascents of area classics and test pieces (including routes in Huntington Ravine, as well as on Cathedral Ledge and Cannon Cliff).
Who: Instructors/guides include alpinist Steve House, Colorado climber Jared Ogden, as well as locals Mark Synnott, Kevin Mahoney, Janet Bergman, and Fred Wilkinson.
Web: www.ime-usa.com/imcs/ice_fest.html
CHICKS WITH PICKS EAST
Where: North Conway, NH
When: February 14-17, 2010
What: This women-only ice fest started in Ouray, CO, but soon thereafter launched its eastern sister in North Conway. Attendees sign up for one of six “levels” that match their ability: beginning, intermediate, advanced, mixed climbing, beginning lead, and lead climbing. An auction and slide show also raise money for a local women’s shelter.
Who: “Girly Guides,” as they’re known, include Kathy Cosley, Kitty Calhoun, local Anne Skidmore, and many others.
Web: www.chickswithpicks.net/chicksEast.htm
CATSKILL ICE FESTIVAL
Where: New Paltz, NY
When: February 19-22, 2010
What: By now you know the drill: classes for beginning, intermediate, and advanced ice climbers, plus mixed climbing and dry tooling. For the Catskill Ice Fest, add on the “Catskill Tour,” a sort of greatest hits, and “Backcountry Day in the Ravines,” which includes a bushwhack in, multipitch ascent, rappel, and bushwhack out.
Who: Alpine Endeavors founder and head guide Marty Molitoris and others.
Web: www.alpineendeavors.com/schedule_events/catskill_icefestival.html
ADDITIONAL INFO:
All of the ice fests typically provide complimentary demo gear if you don’t have your own equipment. Pre-registration for clinics is almost always required, and classes are filled on a first-come, first-served basis. Evening slide shows are usually free, and worth attending for the stoke alone. Here’s just a sampler: Erik Weihenmayer, the first blind person to reach the Seven Summits, and Steve House, often regarded as the best alpine climber in the world, are the marquee presenters at Mountainfest in the Adirondacks. Matt McCormick will offer up “Northern Revival,” about local New England test pieces, at the Smuggs’ Ice Bash. “Alpine Climbing in the Pacific Northwest” and “Ice Climbing in Newfoundland” will be the featured slide shows in the Catskills.