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sports medicine
Nathan Endres, MD

R
ockclimbing has become in- times more likely to result in hospital-

creasingly popular as both a ROCK ization than were falls of less than or
recreational activity and a com- equal to 20 feet.
petitive sport. Rock climbing is a gen-
eral term that includes multiple forms n Rock climbers who participated in
CLIMBING
of climbing- indoor climbing, sport traditional or solo climbing or who have
climbing, bouldering, etc. There have climbed while under the influence of
been a number of studies performed, drugs or alcohol reported more injuries.

which describe rock climbing injuries, INJURIES
but these studies are hard to compare References:
because they include different forms of
climbing, different groups of climbers Backe S EL , Janson S , Timpka T. Rock
climbing injury rates and associated risk
(experts vs. recreational climbers) and factors in a general climbing population.
different types of injuries (only trau-
matic injuries presenting to an emergen- Scand J Med Sci Sports 2009; 19: 850
– 856
cy department vs. all types of injuries).
Despite these differences, some interest- Förster R, Penka G, Bosl T, Schöffl VR.
ing information and general trends can Climber’s back—form and mobility of
be found that will hopefully be helpful
the thoracolumbar spine leading to pos-
to the climbing community here in Ver- tural adaptations in male high ability
mont.
rock climbers. Int
J Sports Med. 2009;30:53–59.

n Rock climbing injuries are common.
Somewhere between fifty and eighty Gerdes EM, Hafner JW, Aldag JC. In-
percent of rock climbers report a climb- jury patterns and safety practices of
ing related injury annually.
rock climbers. J Trauma 2006:
61(6):1517–1525.

n Overuse injuries are more common
than acute injuries and most commonly Jones G, Asghar A, Llewellyn DJ. The
affect the upper extremity, especially Epidemiology of Rock Climbing Inju-
ries. Br J Sports Med 2008;42:773–778.
the hand and wrist. This is really no
surprise as great forces are transmit- Kubiak EN, Klugman JA, Bosco JA.
ted through the hands when they are
Hand Injuries in rock Climbers. Bulle-
repetitively used for the various climb- tin of the NYU Hospital for Joint Dis-
ing holds. Many injuries are associated eases • Volume 64, Numbers 3 & 4,
with climbing maneuvers that place 2006
much if not all of the body weight on
climbers is an injury to the A2 pulley of pectoralis muscles These postural ad-
one or two fingers. Hand injuries can be Nelson NG , McKenzie LB . Rock the flexor sheath. Each finger has a pul- aptations have been linked to shoulder
very problematic as even minor injuries climbing injuries treated in emergency
can compromise use of the hand as a departments in the U.S., 1990 – 2007 ley system that keeps the flexor tendons problems. Postural therapy, pectoralis
.AmJPrevMed2009;37:195–200.
(the tendons that help make a grip) from stretching, and strengthening the rota-
climbing tool and reduce overall ability bowstringing and losing mechanical ad- tor cuff muscles and muscles around the
and even security.
Neuhof A et al. Injury Risk Evaluation vantage. A pulley rupture typically in- shoulder blade (trapezius, latissimus,
Elite climbers are most susceptible to in Sport Climbing. Int J Sports Med volves a history of an audible pop and rhomboids, serratus) can help overcome
n 2011; 32: 794 – 800.
swelling during sudden forced exten- many overuse shoulder problems.
overuse injuries of the fingers, where- sion of the finger. This most commonly
as recreational climbers have a wider
range of injuries, including more lower Rohrbough JT, Mudge MK, Schil- involves the long and ring fingers. This n Lower extremity injuries are not
ling RC. Overuse injuries in the elite may lead to clear bowstringing of the uncommon. Most involve the foot or
extremity injuries. This is related to rock climber. Med Sci Sports Exerc tendon compared to the other hand. If ankle and are acute, traumatic injuries
increased technical difficulty and in- 2000:32(8): 1369–1372.
creased frequency of climbing. As with you notice this problem, it is best evalu- related to falls. Ankle sprains and foot
most overuse injuries, many overuse ated by a hand specialist fairly quickly fractures are the most common lower
after the injury. Surgery may be recom- extremity injuries.
climbing injuries can be treated effec- mended.
tively with rest, training modifications,
a course of anti-inflammatory medica- Nathan Endres, n Concussions and severe head injuries
MD is an ortho- n Injuries of the shoulders are also are rare. I did not find specific data on
tion and a directed therapy program common in rock climbers. The most the use of helmets amongst rock climb-
(there are therapists who specialize in paedic surgeon
hand therapy). The therapy program and assistant frequently reported shoulder conditions ers and their protective effect. However,
may include a period of splinting or professor at the are rotator cuff strains from overuse and injuries to the head in climbers were
University of Ver- dislocations from falls. Expert climbers most often lacerations and resulted
bracing.
mont. He is fel- have been shown to have increased tho- from being hit by an object. There is
lowship trained in
n Common hand injuries include soft racic kyphosis (forward bending of the data from other sports like alpine ski-
tissue injuries to the fingertips (abra- sports medicine, middle of the spine in your back) and ing, which shows that helmets are effec-
shoulder surgery lumbar lordosis (backwards bending of tive at preventing head and face lacera-
sions and lacerations), tendon injuries, and orthopaedic
the lower spine in your back) This ad- tions.
ligament sprains and carpal tunnel syn- trauma. He is a member of the United States
drome. A specific injury described in
Ski and Snowboard (USSA) physician pool.
aptation is known as “climber’s back”
and is often accompanied by shortened
n Falls of greater than 20 feet were 10

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