Hiking the Almighty Algonquin Peak: 5,114 feet

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Posted August 27th, 2008
Aerial view from just above Algonquin’s summit, looking at Mount Colden (the peak with slide scars) and beyond to Mount Marcy. Photo by Carl Heilman II / Wild Visions, Inc.

This is the ninth in a series of monthly articles designed to introduce Vermonters to the many winter and summer activities in the Adirondack High Peaks Region. This month we cover Algonquin, one of the absolute best day hikes in the Northeast. It has an easy first mile, then it becomes increasingly steep and rocky. After a steep slab section, the trail ascends on open rock to panoramic summit views. With over 40 summits above the magical 4,000-foot height, the Adirondacks have a huge selection of hikes waiting to be sampled. The road biking on the New York side of the lake is also superb with generally good pavement and light traffic. From the ferry at Essex, you can find great rides by heading south, north, or west toward Lake Placid. And for paddling and canoe camping, the Adirondack Park ranks as one of the premier destinations in the country.

HIKE SUMMARY
Round-trip distance: 8 miles
Total time: about 3 hours for the ascent and 2 hours for the descent
Total elevation gain: about 3,000 feet

Algonquin is the second highest mountain in New York, only 230 feet lower than nearby Mount Marcy. The view from Algonquin is every bit as good—many would say it is more interesting than Marcy’s—and the hike is about half the almost 15-miles (round trip) required by Marcy. The summit view across the deep chasm containing Avalanche Lake, to the cliffs and slabs on Mount Colden, and to Mount Marcy in the background, is one of the great vistas of the Adirondacks. For peakbaggers, Algonquin—more correctly the MacIntyre Range—is really three mountains. Wright Peak (4,580 feet) is a subsidiary summit reached by a short detour on your way up Algonquin. Iroquois Peak, seventh highest at 4,850 feet, is about a mile farther out along the ridge past Algonquin’s summit. And there’s more: Algonquin, with or without Wright and Iroquois, can be done as a spectacular loop hike, including Avalanche Lake, Avalanche Pass and Marcy Dam. The good thing about Wright is that if things don’t work out—tiredness, icy conditions, and the like—it is itself a great consolation prize with a fine, open summit. The one drawback to this extremely popular hike is the condition of the trail on the lower mountain. Years of heavy use and erosion have left their mark; the going can be a bit tedious, especially on the descent when you are tired.

ROUTE DESCRIPTION
After signing in at the trailhead, follow the van Hoevenberg Trail over generally easy ground. After a mile, stay right (straight) at the signed intersection. (The left fork takes you to Marcy Dam and towards Mount Marcy.) From here on, the trail begins to gradually climb. Stay right at a trail fork at 1.4 miles, and pass a pretty waterfall at 2.4 miles. The trail alternates between mellower stretches and steep sections, and at 3.1 miles it takes you past the faintly marked spur trail (left side) to Wright Peak (0.4 miles). For the next half mile the trail is very steep and at one point heads straight up a slab of exposed bedrock, 100- to 150-feet high. Finally the trail breaks out into the open and leads you up an extensive series of slabs and ledges to the top. In good weather, this summit offers one of the best, most dynamic mountain views in the Northeast. In whiteout conditions however, take care not to lose your bearings. Your descent is by the route you came up, and the yellow-blazed trail does continue off the backside of the mountain. This way leads either to Iroquois Peak or down a long, rough descent toward Avalanche Lake. (If you do want to do the loop hike via Avalanche Lake, consult the ADK guide or map for the High Peaks.)

On your way home, you might want to head over to Lake Placid. It’s just a few minutes away, and there are plenty of shops, restaurants, and bars in town. Once you return to the highway, the 70- and 90-meter Olympic ski jumps on the outskirts of town are in plain view.

DRIVING DIRECTIONS
When approaching from the Burlington area, take the Charlotte ferry to Essex, NY. Leaving the boat, head left on NY22 before turning right, almost immediately at the 3-way stop in Essex (50 yards or so), to stay on NY22 south. Continue on NY22 through Wadhams, 9 miles from Essex. Here, just past the Dogwood Bread Company, make a sharp right turn, and following County Road 8, continue to US9 at about 16 miles from the ferry. Head left on US9 and proceed into and through Elizabethtown (gas, groceries) to where NY9N turns right, a short distance past the Stewart’s gas station. Follow NY9N up and over a height of land then down a long hill to a T-intersection with NY73. Turn right to Keene. In Keene stay left on NY73, going toward Lake Placid. After passing Cascade Lakes and the Olympic Ski Complex entrance, you come to Adirondack Loj Road on your left, about 11 miles from Keene. Head south on it for 5 miles to the High Peaks Info Center at Heart Lake. Pay the day use fee and park your car. (For non-ADK members it is $9, or $4.50 after 1 p.m.)

MORE INFO
From September 2 through October 14, the ferry departs every 30 minutes from Charlotte, between 8 a.m. and 6 p.m., and from Essex between 8:30 a.m. and 6:30 p.m. There are earlier and later departures hourly.

To get over to the New York side without using the ferry, drive south through Vergennes to Route 17, cross the Crown Point Bridge, and head north through Westport and on to Elizabethtown. Then continue as above.

There is a bakery/coffee house in Wadhams, the Dogwood Bread Company. It is open daily in summer. There are Stewart’s gas stations (drinks, some groceries, sandwiches, good ice cream, and more) in both Elizabethtown and Keene. There is also a supermarket in Elizabethtown.

Check the Adirondack Mountain Club’s website for weather and trail conditions at www.adk.org or call 518-523-3441.

Call the High Peaks Information Center for up to date trail and weather information at 518-523-3518.

Contact the Lake Champlain Transportation Company for ferry times and status at www.ferries.com or 802-864-9804.

REFERENCES

High Peaks Region, 13th edition. Adirondack Mountain Club, a hiking guide published by the ADK. A topo map is included with the book.

100 Classic Hikes of the Northeast, 2nd edition, Huntington Graphics.

Jared Gange is a guidebook author and the owner of Huntington Graphics, publisher and distributor of outdoor and recreation titles for New England. He has written Guide to Vermont’s Day Hikes, Hiker’s Guide to New Hampshire and 100 Classic Hikes of the Northeast.

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